Electrical Upgrades

During the original rebuild, I tossed out the factory wire loom and created a new one. I ditched the factory lights and installed new tail lights with integrated turn signals and replaced the headlights with halogen driving lights. I installed a blade fusebox for the wiring under the dash and LED turn signal indicators in the dash also. That worked fine, but it wasn't practical because you had to reach way down and flip a toggle switch to activate the turn signals.

I decided to order a turn signal lever designed for golf carts with a four-way flasher function that mounted to the steering column. For the headlights, I kept the toggle switch mounted to the dash, and then relocated the blade fusebox closer to the dash access doors. I also improved the wiring and added higher amperage fuses.

I also installed higher wattage halogen bulbs for the headlights, but since they weren't street legal I had to order them online. Factory bulbs are 55watt, and the ones I ordered online were 100watts. The lights were actually driving lights, not headlights. Headlights used H4 bulbs, and these were H7 bulbs which are smaller. The headlight housings are also smaller, so the mirrored refractor surface is also smaller.

Of course, since I had come this far I had to install new gauges. I bought a dash kit from Autozone and had to cut out part of the dash to fit it. Unfortunately I did a shitty job and cut out too much, so I had to find a way to fix it. To do this, I bought some rubber diamond plate mats and cut them to fit the dash where the cutout had been. I also did this to the dash access doors so it looked like I had planned this. Either way it looked okay.

For the gauges, I installed a battery voltage indicator, engine temp gauge, and oil pressure gauge. The stock G2 engine is only 285cc, and only uses 1qt of oil, which isn't enough to create pressure that can be measured. The lubrication system is a splash type system that pumps it from an oil sump to the top of the valve cover and drips it down into the cylinder and crankcase. The factory build uses a red oil level warning light instead, so I just went with that and installed a new red LED light but never got around to connecting it.

I also bought a tachometer and mounted it in one of the cupholders. To connect it, I connected the negative wire from the tach to the negative wire on the coil, and the positive lead to the battery 12volt line. The other item was connecting the horn, which my dad had been asking me about for a while.